After a wonderful time in Chiang Mai, we took an early morning bus to Chiang Rai, a laidback town in the mountains of Northern Thailand. We checked in to our guesthouse, then rode the local minibus to the White Temple, an innovative project by Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Its estimated completion date is 2070, reminiscent in style and building pace of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, which has been under construction for over 120 years. The design was impressive, and we also enjoyed a gallery of Kosipipat’s artwork, which included both beautiful and bizarre creations. The next day, we visited the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar converge on the Mekong River. Infamous for the opium trade, the Golden Triangle region was the world’s largest opium supplier until the 21st century, when Afghanistan surpassed it. We visited the Golden Triangle Park Hall of Opium, a fascinating museum with an extensive history of the opium trade in Asia, driven by colonial demand. The museum also featured movies on the CIA’s efforts to arm and fund opium-growing villagers during the Vietnam War, as well as exhibits on the dangers of addiction and policy solutions to combat substance abuse. We returned home early ahead of our 6am departure for a 2-day slow boat on the Mekong River to Luang Prabang, Laos. Half asleep, we rode to the border between Thailand and Laos. A thick fog shrouded the rice paddies, broken up only by the occasional dark silhouette of a tree or farmhouse as the sun rose over the mountains. We arrived at Huay Xai, the Lao border crossing, at 8:30am. We filled out three lengthy immigration forms, which were almost certainly thrown out five minutes later. Our boat set sail at 11am, and we cruised past small villages, grazing herds, and fishermen in long, shallow boats on our way to Pakbeng, a small town where we spent the night. The breathtaking scenery and a few Beerlaos helped pass the time. The next day, we left in the morning fog, which turned into a blazing afternoon sun; the river breeze kept us cool until we docked in Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage city lined with palm trees, golden temples, and teakwood houses. Laos is among the least developed countries in the world, and it feels much different than the comparatively wealthy Thailand. Like Vietnam, Laos is a one-party socialist state. Although hammer and sickle flags are ubiquitous, there are many small businesspeople selling food, managing guesthouses, and catering to the growing tourism industry. There is also private land for sale and a large number of development projects, mostly funded by China. China is investing billions in Laos to build rail lines, mining facilities, and, most controversially, massive hydropower dams in the Mekong River. While Laos is free of McDonald’s and oversized shopping malls, one wonders what the country will look like in 20 years, especially as China expands its influence. Fortunately, the United States and Laos laid the groundwork for greater partnership last year. At the end of the secret anticommunist bombing campaign in Laos in the 1970s, about 80 million unexploded bombs remained, continually maiming and killing Laotians to this day. President Obama visited in 2016 to announce $90 million to remove unexploded ordnance, double the previous budget, as well as an expansion of programs to improve education, nutrition, and economic development. He said (full speech here): Over nine years -- from 1964 to 1973 -- the United States dropped more than two million tons of bombs here in Laos -- more than we dropped on Germany and Japan combined during all of World War II. It made Laos, per person, the most heavily bombed country in history…And that conflict was another reminder that, whatever the cause, whatever our intentions, war inflicts a terrible toll, especially on innocent men, women and children. Today, I stand with you in acknowledging the suffering and sacrifices on all sides of that conflict…Given our history here, I believe that the United States has a moral obligation to help Laos heal.
2 Comments
Lauren
1/23/2018 09:54:54 am
Jealous !!!
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Robert and Alexa
1/23/2018 07:25:27 pm
We miss you!
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